Topic: Tomatoes

[Dianna]

Jim bought me some plant lights and I started seeds. Got my maters starting to elbow up!



Now I am wondering if I started them too soon. I have flowers and vegetables potted up in my 8x10 sunroom. Guess I better wait a little longer before I start more....

[Bonnie]

Don't look like no mater sandwich just yet does it?

[Dianna]

They are getting there, though!

[Mator]

Don't look like no mater sandwich just yet does it? ?

Someone must be looking in my window!!!

[Mator]

Dianna....

Whaaaaat'cha groooow'n?

From my limited experience and from the numerous articles I have read, I think tomato plants can be started to soon. However, they will do just fine and not be stunted in their growth if you keep them in a large enough container so they will not get rootbound. The basic concept of what I have read is that a tomato plant that becomes rootbound will have a longer adjustment period once transplanted outside, thus effecting the duration and quantity of its harvest.

So, all in all, an extra transplanting will do wonders if needed.

[Dianna]

Mator, you mean you didn't recognize your kinfolk in that peat pot?



Yes, that is tomatoes in that pot up there. I am tickled that they are growing. Thank you for giving me some pointers. I am new at this seed-starting stuff. I normally just buy plants when we start the garden...

Dianna

[Jim]

We haven't had good luck with tomatoes in the garden. The first year we had to deal with blossom end rot. Took care of that with a calcium spray and we got enough to do some canning. The next year we didn't get hardly any tomatoes. We tried a few different varieties and none of them produced well. Last year, we had some blossom end rot again and then the 90 degree days didn't do them any good.

This year I am going to apply some lime before I till the last time just prior to planting. That should take care of the blossom end rot problem.

I'll still buy some plants even though Dianna is starting some from seed.

[Mator]

Blossom end rot (BER) can easily be induced into certain types of tomato plants by irregular and over watering. Whether this is from natural watering/heavy rain and drought sessions or just a non standard cycle of watering from a hose. Also, BER can be caused by just to much watering in general. Placing a thick layer of mulch around tomato plants will help maintain even water levels in the soil during the mid-summer heat waves of the south. Also, water the soil and do not water the foliage. The foliage will suck up the water to fast causing the lack of calcium in the plant, which is a cause of BER.

Paste type tomatoes tend to be more susceptible to BER early in the harvest. Once their rootbase gets deeper and more established later in the season, BER will show up less and less.

One more thing on watering and mulch. Having mulch around your plants will keep the soil from splashing up on them. Soil on the stems and leaves can transfer soil bound disease to the plant. I have to be very careful of this in my area.

With your calcium supplements and even watering, you should have a better harvest this year.

[Dianna]

The foliage will suck up the water to fast causing the lack of calcium in the plant, which is a cause of BER.

Thank you so much, Mator! I did not know that...

Whether I am out there watering by hand or watering by sprinkler, the foliage has always been dowsed. I thought it helped the plant for the foliage to soak up the water.....DUH!

[Jim]

Lots of great info, Mator. I am going to try to do it right this year. I'm going to take your information about the watering to heart as I knew that was the major contributor to the BER. My Dad told me to put the lime down and he doesn't water his garden at all. He says if the Lord don't water it, then it doesn't get watered. He lives in Tennessee near Nashville so they usually get a bit more rain than we do. The year that we fought the BER so much was a year when we watered every other day, then it would rain every day for a week, then we would pick right back up watering. Like you said, I think we just overwatered that first year. That was really our first garden.

Last year I think I spent too much time worrying about corn and let my tomatoes go. Not gonna happen this year even though I do love my corn.

Might have to start a new topic on that one.

[Bonnie]

Okay, Jim I'm gonna get the canning jars ready.

Bonnie

[Dianna]

All right, Mator, got a question for you...

Could I mulch with newspaper magazines? I pick up several copies (of "Skirt") every time we go out to a restaraunt. I pick up at least two copies for me and two copies for Jim; I have Aunt Bonnie pick up two copies, also!

These are really great newspaper print kind of rags with several pages. I, originally, started picking them up because I want to start lasagna gardening. I love the whole idea of making weeding easier, but that is another topic...

Will the colors in the magazine, flat not glossy, hurt the tomatoes?

[Bonnie]

Jim said if you don't soon use those skirts for something you will have to start wearing them.

[Patty S]

Dianna, I'm not familiar with "Skirt" magazine, but it's my understanding that harmless food colorings are used for most newsprint these days, rather than "ink".  If it's a local publication, try calling them to check...

I'm sure they'd love to hear what you're using it for!

[MassMama]

Dianna I was reading that is fine to use paper That is NOT glossy in your garden... You can put a mulch on top of the paper and it will help with the weeds and help keep moisture in the garden!!

I use that for my worm bin!!

[Dianna]

Thanks Patty and Rita. I will be using them as a weed barrier then. Jim will be glad to see my stacks of skirts get out of the house!

Aunt Bonnie, I think I will let the tomatoes and everything else wear the skirts in this family! I don't want to have a skirt on out in the garden for sure...

[bhicks]

We haven't had good luck with tomatoes in the garden. The first year we had to deal with blossom end rot. Took care of that with a calcium spray and we got enough to do some canning. The next year we didn't get hardly any tomatoes. We tried a few different varieties and none of them produced well. Last year, we had some blossom end rot again and then the 90 degree days didn't do them any good.

This year I am going to apply some lime before I till the last time just prior to planting. That should take care of the blossom end rot problem.

I'll still buy some plants even though Dianna is starting some from seed.

[bhicks]

Try Calcium Nitrate, my father uses this as does a farmer downt eh road from us on Hwy 378 that plants tomatoes to sell. He swears by this and usually has a very good "mater" crop.

What helps against the tomato virus, this has gotten me the past two years and killed all my plants when they were loaded down with green tomatoes?

[Jim]

I got something like that to spray on the plants but the lime treatment and proper watering with mulch should keep it all from happening.  The BER is caused because of a low concentration of calcium in the fruit.  The low calcium levels are caused by drought stress, excessive soil moisture fluctations, or excessive nitrogen fertilization.  It could also be a combination of these.

The lime helps.  According to my Dad he puts it down about once every 2 years and then he doesn't have to use the calcium nitrate.  Mulching is the best way to keep the moisture constant. 

What kind of virus was it?  We usually try to get the disease tolerant varieties.  The first year we had Parks Whoppers.  The second year we got Celebrity, Early Girl and Better Boy.  Last year we tried Celebrity and Parks Whoppers.  I don't know which ones I'll get this year.  I ordered some from a garden place that is supposed to have fruit that is 18" around.  I haven't got those plants yet.  They said they would ship during the planting season for my zone.  I expect them sometime after the first of May.

[bhicks]

I have planted Better Boys the past two years using lime and calcium nitate and still lost all to this "tomato virus" or at least that is what I was told. I talked with a man that farms the land around my house and he suggest moving my garden to a different spot. I'll try this and see if I get better results, I sure hope so, I hate tomatoes from the grocery.

[Jim]

Another idea is to take a soil sample to the county extension office.  I've been told that you can even get a sample box from Clemson and mail the sample to them and they will tell you what to do to grow tomatoes.  I'll see if I can find something on the net that speaks to that.  If not I'll call the county extension office in Sumter tomorrow and see what they say.

I'm with you on tomatoes.  When the tomatoes start producing, my favorite is a bologna and tomato sandwich.  I hope we have enough this year to can some as we like tomatoes and rice too.  I better hush, I'm starting to get hungry.

[duh]

I just have to say that my tomatoe plants grown from seed are the best tomato plants I have ever had this year.  What I did to my clay started last year.  I took my egg shells and powdered them in my onion dicer.  then I sprinkled them in the garden and scratched them in.  That got rid of the BER I was having.  This year I removed about 3 inches of the soil in the beds I was going to use for them and replaced it with finished compost from my compost pile.  I mixed it in good with the rest of the clay that I left in the bed and planted the tomatoes in that.  They weren't doing anything at that point so I begged some of my neighbors fireplace ash and sprinkled that around the base of the plants and scratched it in.  A week later they began taking off.  The are dark green lots and lots of blooms and 4 wittle teeny tomatoes are starting to grow.  I'm so excited. 

I've sense been told that I need to put the ash in water and scoop off what rises to the top and then let the water evaporate.  What is left is the good stuff.  And it only took about a teaspoon around each plant. 

Anyway I mention this because my peppers that are planted are right next to the tomatoes and they have Bacterial Leaf Spot and that could be communicated to the tomatoes but with careful watering they tomatoes seem to be able to fight it off.  Any time a leaf starts to yellow on the tomatoes I pick it off immediately.

Sorry if I went on and on.  I'm just really pleased with how they look this year.

[Jim]

None of Dianna's starts made it to the garden.  I had to buy plants at Lowes like last year.  I did sprinkle in some lime this year so I hope that takes care of the BER we had.  I do have some calcium spray that I have used before but I had rather not do that if I don't have to.

  We have peppers right next to our tomatoes also.  I better check them to make sure we don't have the leaf spot you mentioned.

I do have a few plants that are not doing so good.  Haven't figured out why either.

We would love to see some pics of your tomatoes.  Start a new topic so we can watch them grow!

[duh]

I broke my digital camera or I would be out there snapping pictures right now.

I'm  not sure why you are using lime.  I mean I understand that it was suggested to you.  But isn't the purpose of lime to change the pH of the soil. 

Like I said I use ground up egg shells for the calcium and banana peels for the potassium and fire place ash for potash.  And finished compost for the Nitrogen.  The banana peels I cut into little pieces and through in the compost pile. 

Although last year I did scratch come into the soil.  The BER really upset me so I tried both things at that time.

In regards the Bacterial Leaf Spot, from what I've read it is a bacteria that has infected some of North Carolina and can be spread by seeds.  And there isn't a cure for it.  But there is a treatment.  A fixed copper spray every 7 to 10 days will allow you to harvest a crop.  Just don't spray within 24 hours of harvesting.  And the spray goes around the toes not the nose. 

I ordered some from Natural Planet.  It costs as much to ship it as it does to buy it but I figure it was worth it once.  They website also has several articles on the subject.

I'm sorry none of Dianna's tomatoes made it to the garden.  I have very good luck with seeds for the most part. 

Especially since I'm using yogurt cups as my starter cups. 

[Jim]

I'm  not sure why you are using lime.  I mean I understand that it was suggested to you.  But isn't the purpose of lime to change the pH of the soil. 

Some people sprinkle ground limestone on the tomatoes after every rain.  Others use chemical sprays.  Lime will raise the pH which improves the availability of essential plant nutrients.

The North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service recommends adding lime and fertilizer according to a soil test analysis.    If no analysis exist then add 3/4 cup lime and 1/2 cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer to each plant.  Lime will help reduce nutrient imbalances, particularly with calcium and help control the blossom end rot problem that occurs so frequently on tomatoes.

My Dad spent 30 years as a soil scientist with the state of Tennessee and he says put down lime every two years and you won't have any problem with BER.  This is the first year I have had an opportunity to do that so it is yet to be seen if I did it right.   His soil isn't anywhere close to as much clay as we have so I may have to do something else too.

With the sporadic rains we have had this year, even if all this is right, my tomatoes may not turn out good.  Next year I really need to take a look at mulching in order to keep the moisture constant.  I love to garden but it is a lot of work.