Author Topic: Garden spots (Read 11286 times)

bestofour · « **on:** Sep 13, 2009, 10:56:26 AM »

do you guys change your garden spots every so often? I read somewhere that we should change them at least every 3 years. I swap mine around in the same areas, like move the tomatoes from the front to the back and the squash to where the tomatoes were and like that, but I have used the same 2 areas for 8 years. I've never had trouble with bugs until this year and I'm wondering if that's the reason.

barleychown · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 13, 2009, 11:05:13 AM »

I try to rotate every year, but I didn't do a good job of it this year. I can certainly see the difference in tomatoes grown in a new spot vs. the tomatoes grown in the same spot as last year.

bestofour · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 13, 2009, 11:07:18 AM »

when you say rotate, do you mean totally change areas or just rotate around in the same area?

barleychown · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 14, 2009, 10:13:48 AM »

Totally change areas. My garden is broken into beds, both raised and in ground...if I've used it for tomatoes this year, I won't again for at least a year, preferably two.

bestofour · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 14, 2009, 06:01:08 PM »

So, I'm in trouble. I've got 2 garden spots right now. Both have been used and rotated through for years. Guess I'm going to have to tear up another part of the yard.

johnnie · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 14, 2009, 06:41:55 PM »

As far as rotation is concerned it is always advisable not to grow the same crop on the same plot in consecutive years this is obviously so that disease and pests do not take a hold, in the same way that farmers never drill the same crop in the fields barley one year sugarbeet or whatever the next and so forth.

bestofour · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 15, 2009, 09:17:21 PM »

got it.

Jim · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 15, 2009, 10:25:36 PM »

That's probably why our garden was so terrible this year. I really need to move it but it takes quite some time to get the soil just right. I think maybe Dianna's idea of planting a cover crop might help too. We've had ours in the same spot for the last three years. i do rotate the crops though.

duh · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 16, 2009, 07:44:56 AM »

I thought most rotations were 4 year cycles. Different types of crops for three years and then one year fallow.

I've hear that soybeans are a really good crop to plant to enrich the soil.

Tina · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 16, 2009, 09:22:34 AM »

Most home gardeners don't have the space or resources for the four year cycle. The main thing is to rotate crops yearly within the spaces you have available. Maintain as healthy a soil base as you can. The same rust, fungi, pest that devastated your tomatoes this year can attack your pole beans next unless you have worked towards doing something about it in the intervening time.
And try something new!

johnnie · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 16, 2009, 04:49:24 PM »

I put my assumptions according to the zone maps for SC as mild winter no frost, so as frost is the killer for this plant they should survive outside in SC throughout the year. As they will not perform so well if the cold is ongoing but the key is night frost. given a south facing wall for further protection they should be ok. Here mine is indoors already because we could have frost at anytime, and there it will have to stay until end of May but I will put it out on nice days just to get plenty of light. I have actually seen plants and trees in SC that won't survive a winter here.

bestofour · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 16, 2009, 06:25:51 PM »

So now I'm confused. Should I tiller up part of my yard or try to rework the soil in my garden spot?

I too have a Mandevilla. It dies in the winter.

Tina · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 16, 2009, 06:59:33 PM »

I would rework what you have, Sheri. Unless you want to remodel your yard. Just make sure the soil has the best you can give it over the winter.

Bonnie · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 17, 2009, 12:42:19 PM »

I sure wish that map was right for SC. It gets down in the teens here. It always frost before Thanksgiving. That's what makes the collards good.

johnnie · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 17, 2009, 03:00:17 PM »

OK I can only go on what I have read I also fave friends that spend time there in the winter to escape the MA weather and they always say it is warm. Not having been there I cannot say I have experienced it myself

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Carolina

This is the Golf Capitol of the World
Myrtle Beach claims to be the Golf capital of the World. An average winter temperature in the fifties Fahrenheit promotes year round play on over 100 golf courses. Bargain hunting golfers should consider Myrtle Beach in the winter months. During the off-season for the surf-and-sun crowd, many hotels offer specially priced golf packages including green fees, hotel rooms, and gourmet dinners.
Monthly Normal High and Low Temperatures For Various South Carolina Cities
City   Jan   Feb   Mar   Apr   May   Jun   Jul   Aug   Sep   Oct   Nov Dec
Charleston   59/37   62/39   69/46   76/52   83/61   88/68   91/72   89/72   85/67   77/55 70/46   62/39
Columbia   55/34   60/36   67/44   76/51   83/60   89/68   92/72   90/71   85/65   76/52   67/43 58/36
Greenville   50/31   55/34   63/40   71/47   78/56   85/64   89/69   87/68   81/62   71/50   61/41 53/34
[4]

sunsoaker · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 17, 2009, 03:44:35 PM »

The temps are probably feeling quite warm to someone that comes from MA, where it's much colder. no different than the canadians that spend winters here in NW FL, walking our beaches in shorts and short sleeve shirts while we are wearing sweaters and coats. It's all relative.

Also, those are averages. As an example, the Greenville average low for Dec. is 34. To get that average, there most certainly are temps below 32 (freezing). One night of freezing temps is all it takes. I know, living in NW FL that I can guarantee we will have several nights of below freezing temps during any given winter, and it's not uncommon to even get into the 20s. I honestly think there are very few spots in the continental U.S. that doesn't have to worry about freezing temps on a yearly basis. Even South Florida, has been known to have hard freezes. It only takes one hard freeze to kill off a true tropical plant.

Below is a chart of our "averages". To look at this you'd think we never froze. Yet we had an entire week last winter of day time highs barely reaching 50 and night time lows well into the 20s. Note that we have surpassed September's avg. 5.5" rainfall just in the last 4 days.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Avg. High 62° 64° 70° 78° 84° 88° 90° 90° 87° 80° 72° 65°
Avg. Low 38° 41° 47° 54° 61° 68° 71° 71° 67° 56° 48° 41°
Mean 51° 54° 58° 67° 74° 78° 81° 81° 78° 68° 60° 54°
Avg. Precip. 5.1 in 5.3 in 5.5 in 3.8 in 3.7 in 6.7 in 9.1 in 8.0 in 5.5 in 3.7 in 4.0 in 4.7 in

Bonnie · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 17, 2009, 08:59:10 PM »

They lie, Johnnie.

Jim · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 17, 2009, 09:41:18 PM »

I have plenty of space to move things around but I use a 5' tiller on my tractor and that takes forever to work up a new spot. I don't have a turning plow or a disc harrow to use like most of the folks around here. I do have a middle buster plow which is good for cutting drainage ditches and digging potatoes.

I got some information from the Clemson University site that talks about what cover crops to plant so I may try that. I need to do something if I'm going to have a garden next year.

johnnie · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 01:35:29 AM »

Jim
You obviously have a large plot to keep cultivated which is difficult to maintain and also find time for all the other things in your life. What cover crops were recommended?

Me! my tractor is a pair of legs my plough is a spade and my tiller is a hoe

but I only have a small plot

bestofour · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 04:16:44 PM »

Johnnie, I don't do house plants. Maybe an aloe but that's it.

Jim, I'd like to know what cover crops too.

Jim · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 07:40:44 PM »

Here is the link I was talking about. Clemson has some really good info.

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/vegetables/gardening/hgic1252.html

barleychown · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 08:29:33 PM »

I use clover, wheat, rye, winter peas, and/or buckwheat as cover crops, depending on my goal for that particular chunk of garden space.

bestofour · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 09:13:51 PM »

do you mix a legume with a grain and do you have success with the cover crop dying, I mean REALLY dying, before it's time to plant the vegetables? Vetch is listed as a cover crop and it's a horrible weed in my area.

barleychown · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 09:29:10 PM »

I mix clover with wheat this time of year. Most cover crops are not suppose to die before you plant, instead they are to be tilled under to provide nutrients to the next crop...kind of like composting in place.

I know several people who use clover as living mulch in their veggie gardens...they just dig a hole and plant through it when the time comes...it fills back in as the plant grows and provides a nice mulch.

bestofour · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 10:23:58 PM »

"dying" was the wrong wording. I meant does it successfully till under. When we first moved here we had clover growing everywhere and it has taken forever to get rid of. If left alone clover will take over my entire yard.

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Author Topic: Garden spots (Read 11286 times)

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